Headlight Restoration Discussion

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anthonemorris

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[video]https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10153179993930353&set=vb.340157915352& type=2&theater[/video]

Now i saw this video and decided to do a bit of research into exactly what about the mosquito repellent he used worked so well. The main ingredient in it is called N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide, DEET (/dt/) or diethyltoluamide.

In case you were wondering how i found the ingredrient list i checked the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the product page here: http://www.repel.com/Products-and-Solutions/SportsmenMax/Aerosol.aspx

According to Wikipedia: DEET is an effective solvent, and may dissolve some plastics, rayon, spandex, other synthetic fabrics, and painted or varnished surfaces including nail polish.

So i'm guessing that based on the percentage of DEET and Ethanol in the aerosol basically remove the uv protectant from on the headlight.

may order it to try it. who knows
 
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[h=1]How to Instantly Remove Oxidation from Headlight Without Sandpaper[/h]
Using abrasive methods such as sandpaper to remove oxidation from polycarbonate headlight lens is a big mistake if you only have a little bit of oxidation. You don't use a chainsaw to trim the hedges. You must use the least abrasive method first.

The modern projector headlight lens is made of POLYCARBONATE, not acrylic. Understand that the two materials are different. Acrylic does not yellow and is UV stable, but is brittle, therefore it is used only on taillights. Polycarbonate is strong and impact resistant, and therefore used on headlights to withstand rocks and pebbles, but yellows under UV light without a protective UV coating. Manufacturers use a thin hardcoat silicone as a protective coating. This coating is damaged over several years if exposed to lots of sunlight, unless you constantly wax and seal it. If you have neglected the headlights and allowed the UV coating to deteriorate, you will have to find a coating that has similar properties to the original hard silicone coating. Using a deoxidizer at this point does nothing.

Continue Reading here:`
http://www.wikihow.com/Instantly-Remove-Oxidation-from-Headlight-Without-Sandpaper
 
[h=1]How To Restore Headlights With Bug Spray?[/h]
Courtesy: As Seen On Social Media

[video=youtube;0Y04uLqVM80]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y04uLqVM80&list=UUxcALLOwALTu9D6g00WzjUQ[/video]

Apparently it works
 
Seems to work quite effectively. Good find! I like how you zeroed in on exactly what ingredient makes it effective. This is by far easier than having to wet sand which in my experience never perfectly restores as it always leaves some fine scratches behind.

A method that works well to recoat the UV freshness is using Spar Urethane in a 1:1 mixture with mineral spirits and applying it wet to the headlights and allowing it to dry properly.
I'm going to do this and post my findings on the forum in a months time.

Temporarily I'm using the Meguiars Headlight Protectant which seems to be holding up in the Trinidad sun after about 3 weeks of abuse and about 6 car washes with Turtlewax soap.
 
Courtesy: ChrisFix

How to Restore Headlights PERMANENTLY


[video=youtube;UEJbKLZ7RmM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM[/video]
 
Courtesy: ChrisFix

[h=1]Using Bug Spray to Clean Headlights (WARNING!!!)[/h]
[video=youtube;AYmbBZntuY8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYmbBZntuY8&src_vid=UEJbKLZ7RmM&feature=iv &annotation_id=annotation_3927132083[/video]
 
so it seems that DEET literally melts the plastic as it is a solvent. i'm looking at a way to rinse cleanly the DEET from the surface of the light so that maybe a acrylic based clear coat can be used. many solvents and polycarbonates don't go well together so i'm still looking. should be an interesting search
 
Maybe you can wipe it off with a bit of car gas and wash that off with some car wash soap.
 
gasoline makes polycarbonates cloudy so it kinda defeats the purpose of cleaning it up. was checking and found dish soap was one of the best (Dawn, Palmolive surprisingly) things to use.

"Polycarbonate is one tough plastic. Not even Dirty Harry with his .44 magnum could blast through a one-inch sheet. To use Harry’s words: “a man has to know his limitations”.

Even polycarbonate has limitations. As tough as this plastic is, it is not very solvent resistant. Exposure to some solvents can ultimately cause stress cracking or cloud the surface of the exposed plastic.


For this reason, use caution when using solvents to clean the surface of polycarbonate. The recommended procedure for cleaning polycarbonate is to wash it with warm water and a little non-abrasive detergent, such as 409 cleaner or either Joy or Palmolive dishwashing detergent. Then rinse the surface with clean water and dry with a soft cotton rag or chamois.


What if that doesn’t work? When polycarbonate overlaminate is used in retail environments, anything can happen. I had a service call from a bar-b-que restaurant in Charlotte, NC, which had used polycarbonate overlaminate to cover their tables. They were having a heck of a time cleaning the greasy BBQ and wing sauce from the surface. Grease, adhesives from tapes and labels and paint can pose a real cleaning challenge.


First try a non-abrasive detergent and warm water. If you have to use something stronger, start with the mildest solvents or cleaners, such as Isopropyl Alcohol and Naphtha. Then progress to the stronger solvents, such as Mineral Spirits or Turpentine. After cleaning with a solvent, immediately wash the surface with detergent and water and rinse thoroughly with clean water.


If you are concerned how a cleaner or solvent will react with the polycarbonate, the best advice is to “Test, Don’t Guess”. Clean a small piece of polycarbonate with the solvent and see how it reacts. Better still, immerse a piece in the solvent for an hour. From personal experience, I know that lacquer thinner with immediately cloud the surface of the plastic as it starts to dissolve the plastic. Some of these stronger solvents and cleaners should never be used to clean polycarbonate. This list includes:



  • Acetone
  • Ammonia
  • Carbon Tetrachloride
  • Gasoline
  • Lacquer Thinner
  • MEK
  • Toluene
  • Xylene"


taken from: http://www.rtape.com/blog-post/cleaning-polycarbonate-sheet-before-vinyl-application
 
That's an informative read. Didn't even know these things.

As for clear coat I think the best thing is just to use some car clear coat. It tends to hold up for years.

You can also try mothers cleaner wax on the lights. I tried this yesterday and it cleaned right up. In one go I had all yellowing and surface particles gone.
 
Will try the bug spray one. Just yesterday i went by someone and saw them spraying Bug spray in their injectors and engine.
I need to research this fully
 
so i tried the bug spray method and have some interesting findings. lets start with the obvious one.... yes it did remove the yellowing from the lamp. while i was hoping that it would have taken off the damaged layer as well unfortunately it didn't, so its not a perfect method. next thing i noticed is that it did leave or show stress marks on the plastic, so this is not recommended in large doses as it just may crack your lamp. while the lamp is noticeably clearer, visibility has not improved much as the damage is still there just clear. all in all it was a good experiment to do but i wouldn't recommend it at all unless you just wanna pass inspection or something. it leaves a sticky residue (remember DEET is a solvent) and i did not wash it off yet. will be posting pics soon
 
product used:

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before shots:

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117tcpc.jpg


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applied using a microfibre cloth and got these results

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An update on my experiment. My lights are yellowing already lol. This method is of no use to anyone seriously interested in getting that original lustre of headlights.
 
An update on my experiment. My lights are yellowing already lol. This method is of no use to anyone seriously interested in getting that original lustre of headlights.

lol man sand them dwn and polish or try mothers cleaner wax. With a bit of hard rubbing it cleans up really nicely and then finish it off with some meguiars headlight protectant which lasts about 2-3 months.

I still haven't gotten around to trying the spar urethane method... Soon
 
Now seeing the toothpaste results. Anyone tried the peanut butter or wet newspaper?
 
Seems to work quite effectively. Good find! I like how you zeroed in on exactly what ingredient makes it effective. This is by far easier than having to wet sand which in my experience never perfectly restores as it always leaves some fine scratches behind.

A method that works well to recoat the UV freshness is using Spar Urethane in a 1:1 mixture with mineral spirits and applying it wet to the headlights and allowing it to dry properly.
I'm going to do this and post my findings on the forum in a months time.

Temporarily I'm using the Meguiars Headlight Protectant which seems to be holding up in the Trinidad sun after about 3 weeks of abuse and about 6 car washes with Turtlewax soap.

Still waiting on that spar urethane method.
 
As for clear coat I think the best thing is just to use some car clear coat. It tends to hold up for years.

Wouldn't use a car clear for plastic headlights for a few reasons. Firstly it's not made to hold specifically to plastic so it's going to flake. Secondly it has very little UV protection to offer plastic and the plastic can yellow under the clear coat and render the whole light useless. If you can get a plastic specific clear paint with UV protection that would be the best bet
 
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